Ulleungdo Island: A masterpiece of nature, shaped by volcanoes and waves
Date Aug 19, 2024
Ulleungdo Island is known for its spectacular emerald waters and mountainous landscape. (Photo courtesy of Kim Byeong-gu, hongcomm.)
Ulleungdo Island, the heart of Ulleung-gun County, is situated in the East Sea and ranks as Korea’s ninth-largest island. Formed approximately 3 million years ago from oceanic lava eruptions, this island has remained isolated from the mainland since its emergence. Ulleungdo can be reached in around three to six hours on a ferry from one of four locations: Gangneung and Mukho in Gangwon-do Province and Pohang and Hupo in Gyeongsangbuk-do Province. Due to its challenging location, inclement weather often renders the island inaccessible. However, those who make the journey are rewarded with awe-inspiring vistas that instantly erase memories of the difficult trip. CNN has aptly described Ulleungdo, with its towering volcanic peaks, imposing rock formations and dense forests, as “Korea’s most mysterious island.”
Ulleungdo’s mountains, chief among them Seonginbong Peak, are a treasure trove of ecological diversity. The island’s coniferous, deciduous and subtropical forests are home to species once considered extinct on the Korean Peninsula or previously unknown. This rich biodiversity has earned Ulleungdo the nickname “the Galapagos of Korea.”
If visiting Ulleungdo for the first time, you should drive along the coastal road that rings the island. Planning for the circular road began in March 1963, and full-scale construction started in 1976. The 44.2 km road was fully opened in March 2019, making it a 56-year undertaking. It offers up impressive vistas of the shimmering, multicolor water; unique, wave-carved rock formations; and coastal cliffs.
If you have time, check out the island’s Haengnam Coastal Walking Path. It puts the volcanic island’s spectacular scenery and charm on full display. The winding path stretches about 2.5 km from Dodonghang Port to Haengnam Lighthouse and finally Chuam Chotdaebawi Rock, taking about 1.5 hours to complete. As you slowly walk along the trail built beneath the coastal cliffs, Ulleungdo’s splendid waters unfold beneath your feet, and you encounter sea caves that seem like secret spaces. Also, when you get hungry from all the walking, you can stop at a restaurant selling slices of hoe (raw fish) from a fresh catch and other seafood.
The Haengnam Coastal Walking Path (Photos courtesy of Kim Byeong-gu, hongcomm.)
Ulleungdo’s sights also include satellite islands and imposing, uniquely shaped rock formations that capture travelers’ attention.
The county consists of rocky islands, including the main island Ulleungdo; Dokdo, the easternmost point of Korea; Jukdo, the county’s second-largest island; and Gwaneumdo, which can be reached by footbridge from Ulleungdo. Dokdo, accessible only when the weather cooperates, boasts a unique array of plant species due to its remote location and inhospitable topography. Gwaneumdo, encircled by steep basalt cliffs, remained largely untouched by human influence and maintained its pristine forest until the construction of a connecting bridge. Visitors can explore Gwaneumdo’s circular trail, which offers stunning views of the natural beauty – a harmonious blend of land and sea.
Gwaneumdo is accessible by bridge from the northeast part of Ulleungdo. (Photo courtesy of Kim Byeong-gu, hongcomm.)
Exploring Ulleungdo is like a game of hide-and-seek with unique rock formations. One notable example is Turtle Rock, visible from Tonggumi Pebble Beach. It was named for its resemblance to a mother turtle, seemingly crawling toward the village with babies on its back. Interestingly, due to repeated lava flows, Turtle Rock’s profile differs strikingly depending on the view: The eastern face is smooth, while the western side is craggy. Adding to its significance, a naturally growing juniper tree designated as Natural Monument No. 48 stands to the right of this distinctive rock formation.
In the island’s crystal-clear waters, the Samseonam Rocks stand tall, side by side. According to local legend, this trio was formed when three fairies, who had come down to bathe, angered the Jade Emperor and were turned into stones.
Beyond Ulleungdo’s rock towers can be found satellite islands.
The Samseonam Rocks (Photo courtesy of Kim Byeong-gu, hongcomm.)
At the western end of Ulleungdo stands Daepunggam Cliff, a sheer rock face with a storied past. In the days of sailboats, sailors would anchor their ships near the cliff and wait for favorable winds to carry them ashore, hence its name, literally “Big Wind Hole.” Atop this cliff sits an observatory, renowned as the most impressive among Ulleungdo’s many viewpoints. While there are several ways to reach Daepunggam Cliff, the Taeha Hyangmok Tour Monorail is the most convenient. This mode of transport not only helps visitors save energy and time but also provides a breathtaking panorama of the East Sea, which gradually appears during the ascent.
It’s fun to hunt out the island’s distinctive rocks, which have names like Elephant, Bear, Lion, Noodle and Mushroom.
Mussels are the most abundant seafood found along Ulleungdo’s coast. These mussels are distinct, being naturally larger and more flavorful than their farmed counterparts from around the mainland. A local delicacy is rice cooked with mussels, soy sauce and perilla oil. It’s a delightful blend of savory and sweet. Barnacles, the second most common catch, taste a bit like abalone and are pleasantly chewy. They’re a versatile ingredient, being used in rice dishes, kalguksu (home-style noodle soup) and stews. Both mussel and barnacle rice are best enjoyed mixed with a seasoned sauce. A true Ulleungdo specialty is fluffy rice topped with fragrant myeonginamul jangajji (pickled victory onion). The combination is so irresistible that diners often find their bowls empty before they realize it.
The island’s rice dishes are famous, but so is mulhoe (cold raw fish soup). Ulleungdo residents enjoy mulhoe made with saury, unlike in other regions, where it’s usually made with other types of raw fish or squid. This is because saury was once one of the most commonly caught fish in the East Sea. Ulleungdo islanders remove the innards of freshly caught saury, skin it, slice it thinly and mix it with vegetables and seaweed in a vinegar-based sauce. The sweet and sour taste of the sauce combined with the saury’s rich, savory flavor makes it perfect as a meal or as a side dish with alcohol.
Ulleungdo’s mulhoe (chilled raw fish soup) (Photo courtesy of Kim Byeong-gu, hongcomm.)
Then, of course, there are the squid fishing boats that light up the pitch-black night sea in summer. Squid is so famous on Ulleungdo that they hold an annual squid festival. As you travel around the island, you’re sure to see racks covered with squid laid out to dry in the sea breeze – a local specialty. While dried squid can be found throughout Korea, this island’s variety is unique because it dries quickly in the sea breeze and heat of the sun, making it fresh and tasty. On Ulleungdo, people gut the squid when it arrives at the port before drying it. The leftover innards, which are too good to throw away, are used to make ojingeo naejangtang (squid innards soup). This soup’s clear broth has a clean yet spicy taste and is famous as a hangover cure.
Another specialty of Ulleungdo is the sweet snack hobagyeot (pumpkin taffy). Yeot (traditional taffy) is made by cooking rice with malt and then simmering it for a long time until it hardens. Initially, Ulleungdo hobagyeot was created by adding the bark of the medicinal silver magnolia tree, not pumpkin. It’s said that when it spread to the mainland, hubak (silver magnolia) was misunderstood as hobak (pumpkin). However, because Ulleungdo has a mild average annual temperature, Ulleungdo pumpkins have more sugar content than those from other regions, making them sweet and delicious, like yeot. Today, Ulleungdo hobagyeot is considered the best yeot. It’s less sticky than other yeot and has a savory aftertaste, making it popular as a snack.
Despite its remoteness, Ulleungdo rewards visitors with breathtaking mountain vistas, the azure expanse of the East Sea and a bounty of maritime flavors. The island is a cornucopia of hidden scenic spots and culinary delights, offering travelers an engaging experience akin to an exciting treasure hunt.
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